' Koffee ' in Kodagu

Our trip to South India did not end in Trivandrum or Kanyakumari but continued further, into the most exotic land of coffee ... yes, Coorg (or Kodagu), in southern Karnataka. This is a part of the country I have always wanted to visit, and I have always been intrigued by how our morning cup of coffee is grown.

We travelled by road from Trivandrum, driving up northwards through the length of Kerala and into Karnataka, and after a twelve-hour journey with two brief stops, reached our destination after sunset. I hate reaching any new place after dark … this keeps me guessing how the place really looks … Our destination? My brother’s newly acquired coffee plantation.

My bearings all came into place the next morning. The Hide and Seek sunrise from behind the forest thickets on the hill behind our little cottage made my day.

After breakfast we took a walk through the plantation.  The first thing that caught my eye was this white blanket (like snow) on these little bushes. This was coffee in bloom.

On closer inspection these flowers looked like little fluffs of cotton wool / powder puffs. These flowers had a strong scent, close to that of jasmine flowers, which filled the air around.

We learnt that these blooms wither away in less than a week’s time, then take about nine months to turn into berries ready to be picked. Unfortunately we could not actually see how coffee was processed from beginning to end.

But here is a shot of some sun-dried beans after ‘pulping’ (removal of the outer raw fruit or cherry).  The roasting and the final coffee blends depend on whether the variety is arabica or robusta, some blends also containing some chicory.

 

The canopy of shade under which the coffee bushes thrive are provided by a variety of tall hardwood and fruit trees. Most of these are embraced by creepers of pepper, another cash crop growing along-side coffee.

On the other side of this plantation were thin slender palms of areca-nut or supari.

The view from the top of the hill (part of the property) was breath-taking.

The drive around the country-side was beautiful.  The paddy fields and of course the many tributaries of the Cauvery river which flow through them added to the beauty.

Though we avoided the ‘touristy’ scenic spots and the temples, we missed the nearby National Park and Tibetan monastery (not enough time).  However we did get to see Raja’s Seat (with a great view of the valley below), fit in a good meal at the Orange County resort, and spent a very relaxing last evening at one of the Golf Clubs, watching the sun go down on the turf and the hills beyond.

A trip to Land's End

Reaching as far south as Trivandrum for my niece’s wedding, it would have been a shame not to go on to Kanyakumari, the southern-most tip of India.

We took a day-trip, starting one morning, stopping on the way at the Padmanabhapuram palace, near Tuckalay (which is in the state of Tamilnadu). Driving out of Thiruvananthapuram, within half-an-hour we were in TN.

Built of wood, the palace is inside an old fortress,

at the foot-hills of Velli Hills, which forms part of

the Western Ghats. This 16th century palace was

built by the rulers of Travancore, and is a beautiful

example of Kerala architecture.

This ornate Chinese chair was the King's seat in the Council chamber

Wood pillar made from a single Jackfruit Tree.

Some more exquisite wooden carving at an entrance door.

Some of the windows were specially designed to keep out the heat and dust.

The king's bed, made up of 64 herbs; don't miss the carved Mahogany ceiling.

The palace happened to be full of visiting school-children.

                                              

'Natakasala' the hall of performance:
Notice the shiny black floor, made from coconut shells, egg white, lime, charcoal and river sand.

This dining hall where ceremonial feast were held
could accommodate some 2,000 guests.

After this stop we proceeded onwards to Kanyakumari.  Much discussion on the way about the meaning of Kanyakumari (also called Cape Comorin).  It takes its name from the Kumari Amman (or Kanyakumari) Temple dedicated to the Virgin Goddess, situated in town near the Land's end, at the confluence of the three seas -- the Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean.

We reached in the middle of the hot afternoon and were quite exhausted after the palace visit. So no chance of seeing any spectacular sunset (let alone sunrise) which we had heard much about. Took some quick snaps and hit the road again.

Posing in front of the most famous landmarks here, the two rocky islets just offshore called
the Vivekananda Rock Memorial and the gigantic tall statue of Tamil saint-poet Thiruvalluvar.

We reached the hotel well past 4pm, and not having had lunch, ordered some fish curry and rice, and then in the evening, cooled ourselves with a swim in this infinity pool, watching the sun go down on the shore of the Arabian sea.